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Running with the hares and hunting with the hounds – Limerick style


After more than quarter of a century, I moved back to Limerick a few years ago to settle back in to life in my hometown, . Limerick is a city – it has two cathedrals and a castle, and a population of about one hundred thousand people. Nevertheless when you live in the centre, you tend to remember faces that you encounter every day – shop assistants, bar-staff, office workers, market stall holders, neighbours. Street people.

Limerick is suffering like the rest of the country through the government’s refusal/inability to address the housing crisis. It is also in the grip of an addiction crisis. You see people with addiction issues on the streets, hustling for a fix. Some are friendly. Some are cunning. Some are vile. I fell victim to he baby formula scam some months ago. I was accosted one Sunday evening by a gentleman who had seen better days. He spun a yarn about how his girlfriend had just had a baby but that they couldn’t afford baby food, and could I help him out by purchasing some for him. Alarm bells rang in one ear, but ‘hungry baby’ was the louder voice in my other year. I was shocked by the price of baby formula but bought it anyway. Feeling suspicious when I got home I googled ‘baby formula scam’ and saw the sorry explanation for this caper. Mentioning a hungry baby is a foolproof way to tug at people’s heartstrings. Muggins here buys the baby formula in good faith, then the recipient then brings it back to the shop for a refund. The following day the shop assistant who had sold the item to me said this was exactly what happened. He wasn’t given a refund as he had no receipt. I hope he found a use for the baby formula. Had I been more alert I’d have clocked it as a scam immediately. However bad the homeless crisis is in the country, babies are not going hungry. I have seen the gentleman in question subsequently. I blank him. I can’t help everyone with spare change – there are too many. He ripped me off though so my meagre wallet is closed permanently to him. It’s also closed to people who have previously called me a ‘c**t’ when I couldn’t spare a couple of euro. Who would be dealing with that type of abuse?

Then we have Kevin. Kevin (not his real name) is kind of a legend among city centre workers and dwellers. He’s a man deep in the throes of addiction but remains quite friendly and talkative. He’s hustling of course, for heroin or crack cocaine – his substances of choice – but he doesn’t get abusive or belligerent if you cannot assist. I first met him shortly after I moved back. He was always pleasant when asking for money so when I had change I’d give it to him. I had no concern if he was spending it on drugs – he has no choice in this and is going to feed his habit somehow so two euros here and there from me isn’t harming him. I first got chatting to him when I burst out laughing at his request for a couple of euros to make a telephone call. He saw the funny side too.

Under Sarsfield Bridge

Sicily in summertime

My first trip to Italy as a tourist was in February 2020, just as the world was about to shut down. My first holiday to that country was a revelation. I found Rome to be enchanting. Since then I have averaged two trips a year – never to the same place. Italy is a country where you can pick any spot, and it will be a delight. My favourite place to visit thus far is Venice. But not Venice as most know it. I was lucky enough to visit during the harsh lockdown of 2020 when international travel was strongly discouraged, meaning that my flight to that city was empty and the tourist throngs were conspicuous by their absence.

Palermo

This year I decided that it was time to visit Sicily. . Or rather the Ryanair sale for a return flight in August decided for me. Frugality is a necessity when it comes to travel, as otherwise I would be bankrupt. My return flight cost 140 euros. I was planning to travel alone but as often happens I had an inquiry from a regular travel companion. I wouldn’t mind at all – I like solo travel but given the choice having a co-conspirator is very much appreciated.

Sicily is much larger than I had imagined and has a population of almost five million people. How would we decide our itinerary. Some research indicated that a few stops would be possible. We decided on three days in the capital Palermo; two days in the second city Catania in the shadow of Mount Etna; and our final two days on the island of Ortigia in the ancient Greek city of Siracusa.

Our flight landed on Saturday evening at 8pm and we reached our enormous apartment. It was one of those high ceilinged, old, Italian houses with a complicated floor plan and random doors leading to nowhere. We had an early night. In the morning we had an early start. We were being collected from our apartment at 8am for a day tour. Two weeks earlier I had booked a full day excursion to the town of Agrigento in the south of the islands to see the Valley of The Temples.

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Chicago, Vermont and a very small Murphy

In January of this year, Aer Lingus had a sale. I checked out the destinations and found a six day return trip to Chicago for 395eur in September. That was a steal so I booked it immediately. Having travelled to Chicago a quarter of a century earlier, I did not have any abiding memories of the city. That earlier excursion had been in August and was three days at the end of a fortnight’s journey to New York, Boston and Chicago. I remember the stifling humidity of August, my friend urgently requiring a toilet while in Boystown after a burger went down the wrong way, and me getting trapped in a different toilet.

Back in the twentieth century I had two regular traveling companions with whom I travelled each year. Usually at the end of our holiday we needed a break from each other and we’d take an ‘alone day’ where we’d do our own thing and then meet for dinner and drinks later. I think I went to a bookshop. I selected a diner for lunch and had a sandwich. After my meal I repaired to the restroom, to a cubicle. Unfortunately the door would not unlock for me after my business was finished, and I ended up calling for assistance from the laughing waitress, while being a luminous shade of puce. I remember her comment ‘don’t worry, you’re not the first that’s happened to.’ With 20/20 hindsight I wish I had replied ‘Maybe the door needs fixing then.’

This trip would be different. I was travelling alone and therefore would be marching entirely to the beat of my own drum. Travelling alone is not a challenge for me. About ten years ago I decided that the world was far too big to wait until others are ready to see it, and that if I have a yen to take a gander, then I should go right ahead. Happily when I make the booking I will often acquire a companion who will ask if they can come as well. Not this time however.

In March, a curveball flew in my direction. My youngest brother and his wife (whose wedding I attended in Ibidan, Nigeria last year) announced that they were expecting their first child on September 20th. My travel dates to Chicago were 18th to 24th September. They lived in Burlington, Vermont. A mere 900 miles / 1500 kilometres away. I took this as a sign that I was meant to travel to Vermont for a few days. A return flight from Chicago O’Hare to Burlington International Airport (one flight a week to Canada) was acquired.

My flight to Chicago departed on time at 3pm on Wednesday and lasted eight hours. I watched the films ‘The Bridges of Madison County’, ‘Singin’ in the rain’ and ‘Joker’ during the trip, where to my joy I had a row to myself.

I was staying at a grim little boarding house in Chinatown. This suited me fine. It had a bed, a table, chair and bathroom which is all I need. I wasn’t planning on doing anything there except sleeping. Chinatown is about four miles south of the famed Chicago Loop which would be classified as the main downtown, tourist area. I didn’t arrive till 9pm so that evening I stayed local and dined on sour fish soup in Friends BBQ in Chinatown.

I woke at 6am on Thursday (the six hour time difference meant my body thought it was lunchtime). I had an appointment at 11am for an architectural boat tour of the city. I estimated that it would take me about ninety minutes to reach the meeting point along the Chicago river. The plan was to take the Metro but the early morning sunshine was refreshing so I walked along the banks of Lake Michigan to reach the meeting point, stopping en route for a Korean breakfast of an egg tart, apple and bacon on toast, washed down with filter coffee.

I passed the famed Cloud Gate statue (more commonly known as The Bean as it resembles one) in Millennium Park. This is possibly the best known landmark of Chicago. I am not sure why. Although to see the majestic skyline reflected in the bean is impressive.

The architectural boat your was fascinating. In 1871 Chicago was a rapidly, expanding city of 300,000 residents. Mrs O’Leary’s cow knocked over a paraffin lamp (allegedly) resulting in nearly all of downtown burning to the ground, and one third of the population being displaced. Amazingly only 300 people perished in the fire which raged for days. Chicago became an architect’s dream as it was being rebuilt. A blank canvas – the skyscraper was invented in Chicago. The first skyscraper only had ten floors, but even that must have been a wonder in the 1870s. Various iconic buildings were shown to us including Willis Tower (pronounced locally as Sears Towers – at one time the world’s tallest building), Trump Tower and the St Regis tower – the 101 storey building by Jeanne Gang which is the tallest building in the world by a female architect.

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My friend Julie

My friend Julie died this morning.

I met Julie in April 2002. I was living in a house-share on Chassestraat in De Baarsjes area of Amsterdam. One of my flatmates had moved out and there was a room to spare. Naturally I didn’t want to be liable for the extra rent we’d have to pay on the illegal sublet. Our dodgy landlord was a geezer named Spiro – cash in hand every month and we didn’t know his surname. I placed an advert. I don’t recall if there was much interest in the room (although seeing as this was city centre Amsterdam I imagine there was).  Julie called around to see the place. I remember the interview.

‘Just so you are aware, I am gay,’ I announced with self-righteous, pomposity.

‘Really? I would never have guessed,’ replied Julie in a deadpan manner.

We burst out in what can only be described as a cackle.

‘Do you smoke weed?’ she asked.

‘Why yes. Yes I do,’ was my reply. So we skinned up.

Obviously as we were living in a sublet there was no housing contract. I wrote the terms on the back of an envelope – 350 euros a month.

We lived together for over two years, Julie, Midnight and I. Midnight was the obstreperous feline that had belonged to an earlier tenant in the house-share. Midnight did not appreciate Julie, to Julie’s chagrin. This was nothing to do with her though. Midnight was mean. When I moved out into my own place in October 2004, I thought I was doing the decent thing by leaving the cat in her home. Julie loved that cat but she rang me to tell me that Midnight was mine and to collect her. ‘Murphy, she shits in my bed when I am at work’. In Midnight’s defence this had only happened twice but it was enough to put Julie off that feline.

We went on holidays to the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt in May 2006. We went out on the town in Amsterdam all the time. We stayed home and watched films – the execrable ‘Basic Instinct 2 – Risk Addiction’ for some reason sticks out in my head – possibly because we shouted at the screen throughout because of how terrible it was.

We were very good friends.

In 2007 she met the love of her life – her husband James – and in 2009 they welcomed their child Emma-Fay to the world. Between them they had turned our former flat on Chassestraat into an actual home that was always a joy to visit. Their wedding at the boat club near Lelylaan in 2011 was a wonderful event. I even gave a speech at it.

My head is filled with memories of events and times we shared.

I remember a Christmas at Chassestraat and the big roast turkey.

I remember her hen night where I was the only male guest and we went to a drag bar where one of the hostesses gave Julie a drag queen makeover.

I remember Julie coming to Dublin to see the finale of my play ‘An Unexpected Party’ and the gorgeous jacket she wore. This was a few years after I have moved back to Ireland – 2017 I think.

I remember helping her move to her new house while still in Amsterdam while suffering the most obscene hangover in living memory, and listening to Dolly Parton’s greatest hits as we worked.

I remember watching Eastenders with her when it was revealed that Kat Slater was Zoe’s mother. On random occasions afterwards I would yell ‘You ain’t my MUVVA!’ at her. To which she would shriek back ‘YES I AM!!!!’

I remember going to see the Chippendales in concert with her (we were ALWAYS classy birds.)

I remember visiting her in Amsterdam after I’d moved back to Ireland.

It’s a fuzz of memories when you have known someone for a long time.

I don’t know when the joke began but occasionally she’d raise an eyebrow, give me a withering look and say ‘Murphy, no matter what age I am, you will always, ALWAYS be older than me’. To which there was no response. I was four years older than her.

When she got her diagnosis it was clear that this was going to be a tough road. Sadly she died today. I am very glad I saw her in recent days. I told her I hadn’t meant for her to be quite so literal about me always being older than her.

I am happy she was my friend. I am happy she was in my life. She made the lives of people she met better. Julie was a good one. I loved her very much.

Rest in peace Julie.


Siem Reap, Cambodia

Cambodia was an extra to the holiday at the planning stage.

Back in 2020 during the throes of lockdown I decided that in 2021 I would travel to Southeast Asia once life had returned to normal. Thailand was the destination – I had friends who’d travelled there and recommended it. As this was such a far flung destination I wanted to add in another country to visit while on the trip – who knows when or if I’d get the opportunity to return. Vietnam was the original choice for my second stop – I could picture myself on a boat sailing down the Mekong River. At the booking stage I realised that time restraints meant that Cambodia would be an easier option to navigate timewise than Vietnam. And in particular Siem Reap – the city renowned for its array of ancient Buddhist and Hindu Temples.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

The flight from Bangkok took only an hour. After getting my passport stamped with an entry visa at Bangkok Airport, I went to the Foreign Exchange desk to buy some Cambodian Riel. The riel is a currency that only seems to be recognised by Cambodia’s neighbours on the peninsula. US dollars are the preferred currency, but riel apparently offered lower prices. I bought one hundred dollars worth – almost half a million riel.

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Porto on the Douro River

Early in the year there was a newspaper article outlining Ryanair’s plan to offer two new routes from Shannon Airport – the destinations were Naples and Porto. Having relocated back to Limerick last year after twenty-seven years away, this news piqued my interest. The travel options from Shannon are more limited than those from Dublin Airport (which for some unfathomable reason accounts for 90% of flight to and from Ireland –but without a train service to Dublin city centre). I had visited Naples last year but had never been to Porto. I booked it instantly – a credit card is a dangerous weapon in my hand on pay day.

It’s a city I knew little about. My two previous trips to Portugal had been to the capital Lisbon. Porto is the country’s second city, and the country is named after it(or maybe it’s the other way round – either way Porto is an older city than Lisbon. Today it is home to more than a million people in its metropolitan area and it straddles the Douro River as it meets the sea.

Porto on the Douro River

My friend was arriving from London two hours after my flight landed. I decided to use this time to work. My travels this year meant that I had very few actual holidays left, so I needed to bring the work laptop to minimise official time off. When he arrived, we took the Metro to the Bolhao region in the city centre. We emerged to the sight of a beautiful, blue-tiled church called the Chapel of Souls. These blue-tiled building are dotted all over the city and in olden days blue tiles worked as status symbols for wealth. All churches are covered in these intricately designed tiles.

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Nigerian wedding – chapter 1

In October 2021, when it appeared that the worst of the coronavirus pandemic was over, my brother D, and his fiancée T – who met in college in Ireland and who now live in the United States – announced that they were getting married in January. This was later than intended because of the pandemic. The location was the bride-to-be’s hometown of Ibadan in Nigeria. Ibadan is the third largest  city in Nigeria with a population of six million people. Home to Nigeria’s first university, it is located approximately two hours drive north of the  coastal capital Lagos. My family and I were thrilled and a group of six of us confirmed our interest in travelling – flights were purchased and planning got underway.

Except then the omicron variant arrived in all its toxic glory, which scuppered the wedding plans. Further lockdowns and restrictions in travel meant it would be impossible to proceed with the ceremony in Nigeria. Instead the couple travelled to Puerto Rico for a beach wedding with just a couple of witnesses. That was the end of our glorious African adventure, we thought.

One year later – in January this year – while I was lolling about like a sack of meal, beside the swimming pool in Tenerife, I received a text to say that the bride’s family intended to hold the traditional Yoruba ceremony in June and I was invited. I instantly accepted – this was a chance of a lifetime to see my brother get married in such an exotic location. Unfortunately the number of interested Irish passengers had dwindled in the intervening year, and my sister C and I were the family representatives that would be travelling.

We arranged our visas and vaccines in advance of travel (the yellow fever vaccine is the only compulsory vaccine but I also took the recommended tetanus, polio, diphteria, hepatitis A shots. A pricy but probably wise precaution.)

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Eurovision: The Linda Martin years

Linda’s birthday has now been updated to 1952. We all know she is only 39 though.

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The Eurovision Song Contest takes place in Lisbon this coming Saturday. Ireland is sending a heterosexual singer called Ryan O’Shaughnessy, who loves to talk about his girlfriend Ailbhe. His song ‘Together’ tells a gay love story, with the video to match. Apparently Russia is considering a broadcast ban on the song for breaching its gay propaganda law. You’d think they’d be more concerned with the fake re-election of Putin. Then again, what do I know?

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The Dark Tale of the Kerry Babies

5 years later and arrests have been made.

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Update 23 March 2023 . A man in his 60s and a woman in her 50s were arrested yesterday in Kerry on suspicion of murder of Baby John – the Caherciveen baby).

 I was a child when the Kerry Babies case was the biggest news story in the country. I can remember it being splashed all over the news, and can recall the bare bones of the story. I can remember the picture of Joanne Hayes on the front page of every newspaper, every day for what seems like months, during the Tribunal of Inquiry into the original case. I can remember my father describing it is as a horror film.

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